You know that feeling when your nails are looking so fire you can’t stop staring at them, but two days later they’re chipped, peeling, or just... sad? Hate to relate, but we’ve all been there! 

That’s why we can’t stop yapping about the structured gel manicure that changes the game. We’re talking salon-level strength, durability, and that smooth, sculpted look that actually lasts. No weird lumps, no premature lifting, just sleek, natural-looking nails that can handle whatever chaos you throw at them. 

Ready to level up with a structured gel mani? Grab your tools and let’s get into it!

 

 

What You’ll Need

Before you start, grab these essentials:

• • 180-240 grit buffer – To prep your nail surface.
  • Gel cleanser or 70/30 alcohol-acetone blend – To remove oils and debris.
  • Stay Put Primer – To help your gel stick like glue (but, like, the good kind).
  • Flex Tint Rubber Base (HEMA-Free) – "Dreampop" – Our go-to for a strong, flexible base with a sheer wash of color.
  • Ultra-Fine Liner Brush (12mm) – For precision application.
  • Hi-Def Topcoat – The finishing touch for that glassy shine.

 

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Prep Your Nails Like a Pro

Follow your favorite method of natural nail prep for gel enhancements. This can be done with wet manicures or dry e-file techniques. Push back your cuticles and remove any dead skin from the natural nail. 

Buff the nail lightly with a 180-240 grit buffer, juuust enough to remove shine, not cause any unuccesary damage to the natural nail. Cleanse thoroughly with gel cleanser or an alcohol-acetone blend (70/30 split).

Step 2: Prime for Longevity

Using an acid-free primer, like our Stay Put Primer, apply a thin layer to the natural nail using a scrubbing motion to ensure the most secure bond for your rubber base gel.

Pro tip: Less is more! Scrubbing a small amount into the entire nail is more effective than flooding the cuticle and sidewalls with primer. Take your time with primer as many people forget to get as close as possible to the cuticle and sidewalls. This layer acts as double-sided sticky tape between your nail and the gel enhancement and will ensure great retention. 

Allow to air dry for about 30-60 seconds. It should dry down to a slightly tacky and wet appearance (this is totally normal).

Step 3: Preparing The First Layer of Base Gel

Grab your rubber base gel—we're using Function of Vex Flex Tint HEMA-Free Rubber Base in Dreampop. This formula gives you all the flexibility of a gel base with a sheer wash of color, letting you build structure and tint in one step. Wipe excess product off both sides of the brush on the inner lip of the bottle. 

Then, using just the tip of the brush, pick up a small bead of gel from the inner lip for precise application.

Step 4: Applying the First Layer of Base Gel

Apply a thin layer of rubber base over the entire natural nail, using medium to high pressure to scrub it in for maximum adhesion. Get as close to the cuticle and sidewalls as possible—an Ultra-Fine Liner Brush (12mm) can help with precision. 

Once evenly applied, cure for 30 seconds.

Step 5: Creating the Slip Layer 

Apply another thin layer of the rubber base. Do not cure. This will be your "slip layer." A slip layer will help direct the bulk and structure of your rubber base.

 

Step 6: Building the Structure Layer

— Pick up another small bead of rubber base gel with the tip of your brush.

— Lightly drop it onto the center of the nail, a few millimeters from the cuticle.

— Using a light touch, gently scoot the bead as close to the cuticle as possible without flooding.

— Pick up your brush and, starting at the bottom of the bead, swing your brush from side to side down the center of the nail.

— Keep the bulk of the product in the center. It will start to melt into the slip layer you've already applied.

— Add more beads of rubber base as needed to build the structure.

— Pro tip: Use a feather-light touch, just barely making contact with the gel as you shape. This formula self-levels extremely well, so minimal movement is needed to manipulate the gel.

Avoid heavy pressure, as it can create dents and uneven areas, making it harder to achieve a smooth finish.

Step 7: Refining the Shape & Perfecting the Apex

• • Flip your brush perpendicular to the nail surface.
  • Lightly drag the product up and down to fill in any areas that need more coverage.
  • Continuously check your shape from both sides to ensure even structure.
  • Pro tip: Flip the nail upside down for a few seconds to help the apex form naturally and prevent flooding at the cuticle or sidewalls.

Once satisfied with the structure, cure for 60 seconds.

Step 8: Jazz It Up & Seal the Deal

• • Add nail art if desired, or keep it sleek as is.
  • Seal it all with a light layer of Hi-Def Gloss Topcoat for a flawless, high-shine finish.

Cure for 60 seconds to lock everything in place.
 

Take a moment to admire your masterpiece, a perfectly structured mani that’s not just pretty but built to last. Your nails? Protected from life’s chaos, drama, and daily wear.

FAQs: Your Structured Gel Questions, Answered

What makes a structured gel manicure different?

If your nails deserve protection fit for a queen then structured gel is basically the royal treatment. Unlike regular gel polish, structured gel gives your nails extra strength and durability without the bulk of acrylics. It’s the perfect middle ground between flexibility and reinforcement.

Does a structured gel manicure add length?

Nope! This isn’t an extension, it’s a reinforcement. If you’re looking for extra length, you’ll need builder gel or extensions. Structured gel is all about protecting and strengthening what your momma gave ya!

How long does a structured gel manicure last?

With proper prep and application? Three to four weeks. No peeling, no lifting, just solid, long-lasting nails that can handle whatever chaos you throw at them.

How do I remove structured gel nails?

No yanking, no prying—we’re taking our sweeeet time for this. File down the topcoat, soak a cotton pad in acetone, wrap it in foil, and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. Once it softens, gently push off the product with a cuticle pusher. If it resists, soak a little longer. Patience is in, damaged nails are out.

 

Still Curious? Let’s Go Deeper.

Not sure how structured gel stacks up against builder gel or acrylics? Vexie, we’ve got you! Check out our no-fluff guide on structured gel manicures.

 

Get Your Nails Right with F(VEX) Essentials

If your mani ghosts you after a week, it’s time for an upgrade. For a nail love affair that actually lasts you're going to need the right tools.

Available in five nearly nude colours, grab your very own Flex Tint Rubber Base Gel and get to sculpting baby!

For more nail inspo and tutorials, follow us on Instagram @FunctionofVex.